Portovènere is pretty much the epitome of Ligurian resorts, meaning that there's nothing on the Med that can top it, only a few places that can even equal it. It's got a row of pastel houses facing its cove, the requisite handful of old churches, some ruined fortresses, a sign commemorating Lord Byron's visit, one small beach, two or three mussel farms, a few great seaside restos, a swank strip of shops, a regular ferry to Cinque Terre, and the world's best pesto.
Bridge to a secret garden across the street.
I forgot to include insouciant seagulls on my list above, but they were indeed present.
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